About Linen

Learn more about the Characteristics of Linen and the different stages from Flax to Fabric.

Characteristics of Linen

Flax is one of the oldest textile fibers in the world. Since its arrival, flax has always been present in Western Europe because the plant grows best here. Our temperate climate ensures the ideal alternation of sun and rain for a large and strong plant. The longer and stronger the fiber, the better the quality of the linen. More than 75% of flax fibers used worldwide to weave linen fabric come from France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

A unique, natural color – To enable the separation of fiber from plant, flax is retted. The plant is left lying on the field for up to 6 weeks while nature takes its course. The green stem dries out and turns woody and brown. The exact color depends on the amount of sun and rain during the retting process. The unique beige color of linen fabric is the natural hue of flax, the color of nature. You can find these colors in the shop as flax, natural and oyster. These products are not dyed, only washed or bleached. It’s linen in its most natural form!

A strong fiber – Flax is a strong fiber. It requires great knowledge to weave the stiff fiber into a quality fabric. A high-quality linen fabric can last years and has a high resistance to wear and tear.

The special texture – Linen yarns have a very specific irregular structure and create the unique look of the fabric.

Naturally sustainable – In terms of ecology, linen is a real champion. The plant does not require irrigation and hardly any plant-protection products. The fiber is harvested through natural processes and all other parts of the plant are used for the production of, for instance, food, paper, or insulation material. Spinning and weaving do not have a large impact on the environment and again, all residuals are processed resulting in zero waste.

Highly absorbent – Flax fiber is hollow on the inside and can absorb moisture well, in fact a linen fabric can absorb up to 20% of its own weight in water! The fiber also releases the moisture easily, which makes the fabric dry quickly. A useful characteristic in towels, bath linen and bed linen.

Thermoregulating – Flax fiber has great thermoregulating qualities ; the hollow strucuture of the fiber breathes and makes it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Hypoallergenic – As a natural fiber, flax contains minimal traces of allergens.

UV resistant – The extent to which harmful UV rays penetrate fabric is determined by various factors, such as the density, sun protection factor (SPF) and color of the fabric. Linen is usually densely woven, has a high SPF (the rating that is found on sunscreen) and light colors are recommended. This is because harmful UV rays do not penetrate light colors as much as they do dark colors.

From Flax to fabrics

THE HARVEST

The flax plant grows best in the north of France, in Belgium and in the Netherlands. This region’s rich soil and mild North Sea climate, where sun and rain alternate, are ideal for growing a fiber that is known worldwide for its quality.

In 2018 about 136 000 acres of flax was sown in Belgium, France and the Netherlands, which represented 80% of the worldwide flax production.

SOWING

The sowing of the flax takes place between Mid-March and Mid-April. Flax is grown according to a crop rotation method, with the rotation renewed every 6 to 7 years, regenerating the soil for the succeeding crops of beet, wheat, potatoes, etc. Today’s flax farmers can choose between the twenty or so varieties available.

FLOWERING

The flax blooms around Mid-June. Many flowers bloom with, 80 to 100 flowers per stem.

PULLING

Pulling occurs about 5 weeks after flowering. Plants are laid on the ground in swathes (layers of flax one meter wide). The flax isn’t cut but is instead pulled up, preserving the length of the fibres contained within its stem

RETTING & BAILING

The first natural phase in the processing of the plant into fibre, retting stimulates the separation of the fibres by breaking down the natural cement binding them to the straw. This natural action is performed by micro organisms present on the soil, a suitable dose of rain and zero chemicals. The swathes are turned halfway through the process.

SCUTCHING

Scutching is an entirely mechanical process, without the use of chemicals, that takes place throughout the year. Facilities for scutching are located in the immediate proximity of the fields. The straws are brought from the farm to the scutching mill by the farmer and then converted into fibre

SPINNING & WEAVING

During preparation, slivers of combed flax are mixed together, blending several batches of fibers originating from different fields, regions and years. Mixed together, equalised and stretched out, the slivers become roving before being spun.

DYEING & FINISHING

Most of our fabrics are dyed in the Far East in a dyeing mill that is run by highly skilled workers who are experienced in producing fabric for Fashion & Home Furnishing Textiles.

QUALITY CONTROL

All of our linen fabric is checked to ensure it meets our highest standards. We work with external testing companies like SGS, Intertek & SGS this to ensure quality is approved before shipment.